Don’t let the fact that the guys behind the sushi bar are Caucasian Wyoming boys with winter-time beards fool you into thinking the sushi here will be sub-prime. This is artistry and ingenuity at its finest. The setting, a blocks walk off the square, is just enough subdued and upscale that you can dress up and feel at ease, and just enough local that you could get away with ski boots and a ruddy complexion. Walk up the stairs, past the host station and over to the sushi bar to see for yourself. The freshest cuts, flown in daily, and a rainbow of tobiko to please the eye . . . what feels good on to your sight will only be upstaged by what happens on your palate.

Dressing up the simplest fare (the California roll has real blue crab) or offering scrumptious sashimi Tazmanian King Salmon (you’ll swear your skin gets softer as you eat it), paired with a side of real wasabi and a craft cocktail or saki flight, the minds behind the fish at Nikai will not only indulge you in marine decadence but they’ll entertain the pickest appetites and answer whatever questions you can pause in chewing long enough to ask. You’ll pay some, but you should. For this is upscale, first class sushi at its finest, with only the amount of pretention that you care to bring with you.

Robin Behl, La Cuentista

See all my reviews on TripAdvisor:  search for La Cuentista

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